Independent trade intelligence

Perfumery, cosmetics and raw materials. Sourcing, market, regulation and the actors across Africa, the Gulf and Asia.

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Iceberg diagram of a cosmetic development budget: regulation and compliance sit above the waterline as the visible part, while formulation glassware, laboratory testing and gears for reformulation fill the much larger mass below. To the side, a bespoke fragrance priced in pounds inside a bubble, a handshake over a pre-assessment line priced at zero, and a formula document closed with a padlock
Market & Pricing

Cosmetic development costs: what a quote leaves out

One real quote: 10,780 euros for three references. Every line is negotiated, compliance is a fifth, and none of it covers sourcing, production or logistics.

6 min read

Raw Materials & Origins

Lavender or lavandin: what the yields decide

6 min read

Emerging Brands & Small Players

Niche or independent: who controls what?

6 min read

The wire

Published

Cosmetic development costs: what a quote leaves out

Market & Pricing

Published

Lavender or lavandin: what the yields decide

Raw Materials & Origins

Published

Niche or independent: who controls what?

Emerging Brands & Small Players

Published

Nigeria's shea export ban: who holds the loss

Raw Materials & Origins

Latest articles

All articles →

Raw Materials & Origins

Nigeria's shea export ban: who holds the loss

4 min read

Regulation & Compliance

EU cosmetic regulation vs US: what MoCRA leaves out

7 min read

Raw Materials & Origins

Why the patchouli shortage keeps coming back

8 min read

Regulation & Compliance

What a CITES permit on agarwood proves

6 min read

Regulation & Compliance

Does an EU formula clear the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive?

5 min read

Regulation & Compliance

Sustainable fragrance: CITES, traceability, and who pays

7 min read

Market & Pricing

Why perfumes cost more now, and what that buys

4 min read

Origins

All origins →

Read at the source

Every piece names the document it came from

On the record

Figures we checked, dated at the source

10 to 20%

Heatwave yield loss, and what it costs

As of

Read: Lavender or lavandin: what the yields decide

48

New restriction Standards

As of

Read: IFRA 52nd Amendment: what changes, and when

€2.99

Capace Exclusive eau de parfum, Action stores

As of

Read: Why perfumes cost more now, and what that buys

2 houses

The two anchor houses

As of

Read: Mexican perfume brands built on local botany

30 artists

Sômarôho 2026

As of

Read: Nosy Be, the perfume island, in full swing

20+

Saudi retail partners in the program

As of

Read: How K-beauty is engineering its Saudi Arabia entry

The beats

Six things we follow, and where each one stands

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Raw materials, market, regulation and the actors worth watching: a digest, not a deluge of emails.

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Raw materials, market, regulation and the actors worth watching: a digest, not a deluge of emails.